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Credit to u/Sector95, who brought the sensor and the amp to my attention here.
This could be useful for people with T3PA that don't want to spend 250€ for Elites LC.
EDIT: I should mention, there is no software work needed, thanks to the Leo Bodnar LC amp. I've ended up just tweaking in-game brake deadzone and sensitivity.
What you'll need:
1.
Drill holes to the conical mod metal plate.
2.
Attach the sensor
3.
Attach amp to the sensor
just use the small screwdriver for that. Leo Bodnar FTW.
4.
Prepare the wires for amp-pedals connection
This depends on what you bought and whether you'll willing to do some soldering. Hopefully, your solution will be better looking than mine
More about this wire below.
5.
Inside the pedal assembly:
* don't connect it like this. More on that below.
6.
Assemble it back, you're done.
...or do some testing first
Now, my journey was not that smooth. After I connected everything, the brake pedal did not work. I've spent hours trying to figure out what was wrong, re-soldered everything, re-connected everything and finally, I found it was the wiring to the amp.
The solution is to switch +5V red wire with ground black wire. WTF Thrustmaster!
...so if you take a look at the picure above, you can either put the 3pin amp connector backwards or prepare the pedal connector so the black wire is on the right, red on the left.
This was my V1:
Using 2x rubber stop and nuts as spacers.
I've done a few laps and the pedal felt way to hard. So I did a few modification:
...and that's it. I'm quite happy with the result. Pretty easy to get use to. Definitely feels more 'natural'. Can't compare it to other LC pedals, you decide if it's worth it or not.
I've spent ~30€ on it, but you can get all the stuff cheaper, especially if you order from China.
Hope it helps,
M.
This could be useful for people with T3PA that don't want to spend 250€ for Elites LC.
EDIT: I should mention, there is no software work needed, thanks to the Leo Bodnar LC amp. I've ended up just tweaking in-game brake deadzone and sensitivity.
What you'll need:
- 20kg Load cell sensor - <5$ from China, but can be found on amazon.{de,com}. They usually come with the HX711 module, but we're not going to use that.
- Leo Bodnar LC amp - unidirectional
- optional cable with 3 pin connector. The amp comes with the connector, so if you're ok with soldering, you don't need that.
- M4 rubber - size depends on your preference, as long as it has M4 screw, you're good. I got these
- Cable with JST XH 3-pin connector
- here it is important not to be an idiot like me and buy the correct connector. I ended up with PH, and after searching my place, I had every concievable JST connector except the XH 3-pin, so I've ended up doing some dirty workarounds. Sorry for that
- alternatively, you could cannibalise the connector+cables from the brake potenciometer, since you will not going to use it anymore. But, it will be hard to revert back. It will also be ugly.
- 2x M5 screw - anything over 2cm is fine
- 2x M5 nut
- M5 drill bit for metal
- screwdrivers
- H2,5 hex
- something for the nuts
- hot glue pistol for amp and wire mgmt ( in true thrustmaster fashion )
- soldering equipment for the wires.
1.
Drill holes to the conical mod metal plate.
2.
Attach the sensor
3.
Attach amp to the sensor
just use the small screwdriver for that. Leo Bodnar FTW.
4.
Prepare the wires for amp-pedals connection
This depends on what you bought and whether you'll willing to do some soldering. Hopefully, your solution will be better looking than mine
More about this wire below.
5.
Inside the pedal assembly:
- unscrew all 4 milions screws from the bottom of the pedals
- open the lid slowly and disconnect the JST connector
- unscrew the brake pedal loose
- screw the pedal back
- attach the amp - I used hot glue, but you should be able to screw it down somewhere
- connect the amp to the pedals, where the potentiometer used to be.
* don't connect it like this. More on that below.
6.
Assemble it back, you're done.
...or do some testing first
Now, my journey was not that smooth. After I connected everything, the brake pedal did not work. I've spent hours trying to figure out what was wrong, re-soldered everything, re-connected everything and finally, I found it was the wiring to the amp.
The solution is to switch +5V red wire with ground black wire. WTF Thrustmaster!
...so if you take a look at the picure above, you can either put the 3pin amp connector backwards or prepare the pedal connector so the black wire is on the right, red on the left.
This was my V1:
Using 2x rubber stop and nuts as spacers.
I've done a few laps and the pedal felt way to hard. So I did a few modification:
- replaced the nuts with washers. This way there is still space between the plate and the sensor, but just nanometers...
- removed the lower rubber stop.
- put the brake pedal plate higher
...and that's it. I'm quite happy with the result. Pretty easy to get use to. Definitely feels more 'natural'. Can't compare it to other LC pedals, you decide if it's worth it or not.
I've spent ~30€ on it, but you can get all the stuff cheaper, especially if you order from China.
Hope it helps,
M.
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