Need hardware advice for VR (1 Viewer)

[Taorminator]

Hi guys!

I have the opportunity to buy two different PCs with an oculus rift at quite the same price :
One has an I7 6700K with a MSI GTX 1060 OC (don't have the info if it's a 3g or 6g) and the other has an I5 7500 with a GTX 1070 Asus Strix 8g.

I've checked the reviews online but I'd like to hear your experience from you VR users and what should I be aware of as I'm a guy who's new to VR. The 1070 seems the obvious choice but the guy lives far away and isn't very responsive while the 1060 is in my home town.

Any advice would be much appreciated!

 

[Nighttiger]

A 1070 will give you a pretty big boost compared to the 1060, I would say around 25%. When I see that you are planning to use it for VR I would go for the 1070 100%. The 1060 is just on the brink of minimal specs for VR so the 1070 will get you going. As for the CPU, you won't be CPU bottlenecked with both so no difference. The i7 has 8 threads instead of only 4 on the i5 so the i7 will give you a bit more longevity.
 
However Nvidia just announced their new cards and they will go on sale in september. After that period you might be looking at a decent price drop (2nd hand and new) for the 10-generation cards so it might be worthwhile to wait a bit.

 

[Hujkis]

Do you have any more specs?
You can always sell the 1060 and buy something faster.

 

[Ashnoom]

definitely go for the 1070 at least

 

[Ashnoom]

Also, the I5 will be only marginally worse than the I7. (if worse for gaming even)

I5 is of a newer generation (2017, Kaby Lake), no hyperthreading, better internal graphics, lower TDP, lower frequency
I7 is of a older generation (2015, skylake), hyperthreading, worse internal graphics, higher TDP, higher frequency.

https://www.cpubenchmark.net/compare/Intel-i7-6700K-vs-Intel-i5-7500/2565vs2910
https://www.game-debate.com/cpu/ind...0 3.4GHz-vs-Intel Core i7-6700K 4-Core 4.0GHz

 

[Dama_The_Crow]

I had Asus Strix 1070 O8G, and if you want descent number of FPS to run PC2 in VR, you need to lower graphic settings to the limit. So I think that 1060 is way too unederpowered for VR and Project Cars 2.

 

[Hujkis]

better internal graphics

no
EDIT: Actually, I think Kaby Lake can do HDCP2.2, so there's that. Still useless with dedicated gpu.

lower TDP

that's disadvantage. Keep in mind there are both 14nm

if worse for gaming even

no

lower frequency

yes
 

I had Asus Strix 1070 O8G, and if you want descent number of FPS to run PC2 in VR, you need to lower graphic settings to the limit. So I think that 1060 is way too unederpowered for VR and Project Cars 2.

can confirm

 

[SteveO916]

I had Asus Strix 1070 O8G, and if you want descent number of FPS to run PC2 in VR, you need to lower graphic settings to the limit. So I think that 1060 is way too unederpowered for VR and Project Cars 2.

maybe using the -vrnomirror command might help so that you only have PC2 on your HMD not on the TV/Monitor as well.

 

[Dama_The_Crow]

maybe using the -vrnomirror command might help so that you only have PC2 on your HMD not on the TV/Monitor as well.

I moved to gtx 1080 ti and have no problems anymore

 

[Taorminator]

Thank you guys very much for your advices! it's quite clear to me now so I'll go for the 1070 deal and will be able to upgrade later on Thx !

 

[Dutchtastic]

Just give it some time before upgrading as the 20-series were announced this/last week.
Prices of those "old" cards is going to drop a bit so you might be able to snatch up some deals unless you're short on time to upgrade

 

[Ashnoom]

your answers on mine

It features a lower TDP mainly due to a lower frequency and having no hyperthreading. It can be a advantage if you don't want to sit next to a vacuum cleaner (ok, exaggerating here). It'll also leave you the possibility of going with a lower PSU if needed.

Now with regards to "if worse for gaming even" I guess I should rephrase it. It is ~15% slower/less points on benchmarks. But these are CPU benchmarks and although PCars2 is heavy on the CPU it will in most situations always be GPU bound. So increasing the cost, speed and heat generated will hardly gain you any FPS improvements. Thus you are paying for a 2x more expensive CPU but maybe gaining a FPS increase of 2 or 4 (note, these are madeup numbers except for the price diff.)
Thus for me that validates my statement of "hardly worse for gaming"

The difference between the 1060 and 1070 is going to be much much larger for gaming.

Also, yes, the IGPU of the I5 is better than the IGPU of the I7:
http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compar...-Intel-HD-530-Desktop-Skylake/m178724vsm33102

 

[Hujkis]

It features a lower TDP mainly due to a lower frequency and having no hyperthreading. It can be a advantage if you don't want to sit next to a vacuum cleaner (ok, exaggerating here). It'll also leave you the possibility of going with a lower PSU if needed.

Now with regards to "if worse for gaming even" I guess I should rephrase it. It is ~15% slower/less points on benchmarks. But these are CPU benchmarks and although PCars2 is heavy on the CPU it will in most situations always be GPU bound. So increasing the cost, speed and heat generated will hardly gain you any FPS improvements. Thus you are paying for a 2x more expensive CPU but maybe gaining a FPS increase of 2 or 4 (note, these are madeup numbers except for the price diff.)
Thus for me that validates my statement of "hardly worse for gaming"

The difference between the 1060 and 1070 is going to be much much larger for gaming.

Also, yes, the IGPU of the I5 is better than the IGPU of the I7:
http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compar...-Intel-HD-530-Desktop-Skylake/m178724vsm33102

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_design_power
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_Graphics_Technology#Kaby_Lake

 

[Taorminator]

Ok guys! I've made up my mind and decided to build my own computer instead the main goal for the pc is running PCars 2 smoothly in VR and being able to run Pcars 3 in the future (not that interested in other AAA games). So this build is mainly for VR sim racing basically.

This is the build I have planned :
https://www.ldlc.com/configurateur-pc/c-5811aaa0b290996494645105d73f9104.html

This is the very first time I build a computer so could you guys have a look and give me a general opinion and maybe give some advice to use money more wisely or if something is badly chosen?

Many thanks

 

[Cluck]

My only concern would be the CPU cooler and whether it is up to the job if you overclock it a lot. I'd be inclined to spend an extra 20 or 30€ (if you can budget for that) and get a better cooler. If you're only going for a mild overclock, or are going to run at stock speeds, then don't worry.

Since you've not built a PC before, I'll offer a few pieces of advice:

1. Don't panic, assembling a PC is VERY straight-forward. Just take it steady and if you find you're having to 'force' something into place, it's probably not right!

2. Try and earth yourself on a regular basis and don't move around too much if you're holding components. Take them out of their boxes at the last minute, where possible, to reduce the chance of static damage. I'm not aware of damaging a single component, through static, in 25 years, so the risk is very low. But don't hold a RAM module and start rubbing your feet on the carpet! If the PSU has a switch on the back, make sure it is OFF until you are ready to boot for the first time.

3. Concentrate on getting everything fitted, first, then think about tidying the cables up afterwards. It is worth tidying the cables though, as it can maximise the airflow through the system. Where possible, tuck as many cables as possible between the motherboard base and the side panel, out of sight. But again, concentrate on just getting the thing assembled and working first

4. Before you switch on for the first time, double-check all the connectors are in the right place, that the RAM and GPU are firmly pushed into place and all the necessary fans are connected up. Then hit the big old power button, crack open a beer and smile that sweet smile that says "I did it"

5. Now that you know it switches on, turn it back off and disconnect the HDD, leaving just the SSD connected. Install Windows and only once Windows is up and running, re-connect the HDD. (Thanks for the reminder Si - I should have remembered this)

 

[Darksi]

Only thing I can add on to clicks advice is when you come to have all built and are ready to install the operating system, I would only have the ssd Installed and plug the hdd after all running

 

[Puffpirat]

Agree on clucks assessment looks like a nice build but the cpu cooler could be better, it’s a 6 core CPU so it won’t hurt to get a slightly better one.

Don’t ask me which one xD I’d go AIO water cooled but that’s about 100€ more expensive and you’d have to check if it fits the case.

 

[Cluck]

Only thing I can add on to clicks advice is when you come to have all built and are ready to install the operating system, I would only have the ssd Installed and plug the hdd after all running

Yes, this is a very important point I forgot to mention (I was thinking it and then got sidetracked with the other things). It will ensure that Windows puts all the necessary boot files on the SSD only, which can save a lot of headaches later

 

[Hujkis]

Approximation of what I would do, though some things I'd like in my build are not available on the ldlc shop.
https://www.ldlc.com/configurateur-pc/c-8f9d40110016154ce567899fd47e4fe0.html
+
https://www.alternate.de/GIGABYTE/GeForce-GTX-1080-Ti-Gaming-OC-Grafikkarte/html/product/1344800

 

[Mearcat]

Clucks right, building one is easy. The parts literally push together. I have built everyone of mine since 2001.

The only hair raising parts are installing the cooler and the Graphics card.
The standard lever locks (though yours uses screw mounts) on the CPU socket make it look and sound like the MB is about to snap.

The graphics card takes a little gentle pressure as it is a tight fit, again makes you think your going to break the MB, or snap the card. It won't happen unless you literally behave like an Ogre, as motherboards are strengthened GRP.

Slow and gentle pressure until the parts slot together.

2. Try and earth yourself on a regular basis and don't move around too much if you're holding components. Take them out of their boxes at the last minute, where possible, to reduce the chance of static damage. I'm not aware of damaging a single component, through static, in 25 years, so the risk is very low. But don't hold a RAM module and start rubbing your feet on the carpet! If the PSU has a switch on the back, make sure it is OFF until you are ready to boot for the first time.

I have blown a RAM module through static discharge.

Tip to avoid it is to take off the jumper before you start building, and ware a ESD grounding band - These.

As I was going through my build I was taking my time and carefully installing each part, I got hot. So took of my jumper, lots of clicking (little static discharges between clothing). Carried on with the build and picked up a RAM module - "click" as I touched it, thought nothing of it till powered it up and only 1 of the RAM's registered.

Cost me another £60 for a new RAM module, thank god it wasn't the MB.